VISITES OF ANCIENT LOCATIONS IN MACEDONIA (20)
PART OF THE BOOK “SELECTED PAPERS FOR MACEDONIA”
BY SLAVÉ KATIN
We welcomed our friend frm Canada emphasizing that Macedonia is eager to receive a guest such as Steve Pliakes who bears Macedonia in his heart and soul and we headed to Skopje, to our home located in the centre of the capital of Macedonia. We welcomed him once again wishing him pleasant stay in Macedonia and toasted with a tasteful Tikvesh yellow rakija, and luscious Macedonian specialties.
Next morning we went to the Archbishopric of the Macedonian Orthodox Church where we had a scheduled meeting with the Metropolitan of Polog and Kumanovo Eparchy, H.E. Cyril, who was a friend of Steve Pliakes; they were friends for a long time and used to meet both on the North American continent and in Macedonia. The meeting was in Christian manner, friendly, warm and very important for Steve, who on that occasion handed to the Bishop Cyril the presents from his family, and gave him many regards from the Board of the Macedonian Orthodox Church “St. Clement of Ohrid” and from the numerous mutual friends and distinguished Macedonian emigrants who live in Canada.
At the meeting with the first bishop of the American-Canadian Macedonian Orthodox Eparchy H.E. Cyril, they discussed many issues of essential importance for the Macedonian Orthodox Churches in Canada and USA, the role and progress of the Macedonian communities in the Diaspora. The meeting ended with an invitation by the bishop to visit the Leshok monastery, which invitation was accepted and realized during Steve’s stay in Macedonia. Their conversation lasted for few hours, and the guest from Canada was very satisfied with the meeting and full of beautiful memories.
At the afternoon we went for a walk in Skopje to see some newly built buildings and historical and cultural monuments which Steve Pliakes saw for the first time. We paid special attention to the monument of Alexander the Great or, as officially named “The Statue of the Warrior”. Steve was delighted from the idea of erecting such a monumental statue in the capital of the Republic of Macedonia.
The monument dedicated to Alexander the Great inspired us to talk about the ancient Macedonia, about Philip and Alexander. We also discussed the old flag with the Sun of Kutlesh (Palatica), as well as about the new flag of the Republic of Macedonia, which according some historians and journalists originates from the period of Jesus Christ.
On that occasion Steve Pljakas said that he respected the new flag, but we must not forget that the flag with the Sun of Kutlesh is as favored as the new one among the Macedonians living in the Diaspora, who display both flags with great love. We also talked about many issues related to the ancient period of Macedonia, the connection of the Macedonians from Canada with these problems, as well as about his trip to Pakistan.
Next morning, accompanied by the previous minister of emigration with the Government of the Republic of Macedonia Mr. Martin Trenevski we left Skopje and went to Veles where Steve wanted to visit the seat of the Eparchy of Povardarie and to get informed on the actual issues. After we walked through the center of the native town of the great Macedonian poet Kocho Racin, we passed behind the Eparchy building and headed toward Babuna River. Then we took the highway to Gradsko and Stobi.
In Stobi we were welcomed by a nice girl who worked as a custos at the archeological location. We stayed there more than an hour, walking around and listening to the facts about this Roman city. The custos informed us that Stobi was an ancient city which with its urban part is spread over three terraces which are surrounded by walls and descending towards Black River (Crna Reka), more precisely at the mouth between Black River and Vardar River.
We were informed that the main roads run nearby the archeological location Stobi which connected the regions of Danube River with the Mediterranean countries since the pre-historical period. The cultural influences on the Balkans Peninsula flew from south to north and vice versa along this main road. On the other hand, Crna Reka represented a natural connection of the central regions of Macedonia to the Aegean Sea. Therefore, the city of Stobi had has very important strategic, military, and trading position in the ancient period.
We were also informed that according to some old written sources about Stobi the victory of Philip V, the King of Macedonia over the Dardanians in 197 BC was mentioned. The research conducted under the several constructions in the central area of the later city discovered layers from the 3. and 2. Centuries BC and bronze objects from the classical and archaic period, as well as particular ceramics objects from the Neolith period which originate from that period of freedom of Macedonia.
It is assumed that the city was established in 359 BC. In 168 BC, after the victory of the Romans over the King Perseus, Macedonia was divided in four regions. At that point Stobi became a trade centre of the third region. In 148 BC Macedonia became a Roman province.
During the Roman period Stobi was an important and influential city. It was Episcopal center since 325. During the 4th – 5th century a number of churches were built which were impressive by their size and internal decoration with rich architectural ornaments, mosaics, fresco paintings and structure, of which the most were found during the excavation.
It is interesting to mention that in Stobi there was also a Jewish Community dating from 3th century and a synagogue which was destroyed at the end of the 4th century and over it early Christian basilica was erected.
In the excavated part of Stobi so far a number of architectural object has been discovered and studied, that is, profane and sacral constructions with a public function, private houses, baths, thermals, a theater, a part of the city walls, streets, the Forum and the main entrance to the city.
We left Stobi and continued our journey to Drenovo Canyone and over the bridge nearby Drenovo River we climbed on the old path made of cobbled pavement. Regretfully, this location is still not explored, but we were very curious. That is why we climbed to an old quarry which is assumed to date from the period of Philip and Alexander the Great and it was very important in that period, because beautiful stone figures have been carved there.
Then we climbed to the narrow area between the two hills where according to some legends, there was a big gate behind which another world was beginning. In that area we found stony pillars which were precisely carved and fundaments for some statues or monuments. We had a hunch that there was an amphitheatre on that space some time ago. The place is oriented toward south and it has semicircular shape with a wide view toward the southern side. We climbed over the hill and reached a plain with steep inclination toward the canyon. From there we could see large part of Drenovo and Tikvesh fields. A view which catches and relaxes one’s eyes.
We left the location nearby Drenovo Canyon and continued our trip to Prilep, and from there, toward a tomb in Staro Bonche. This archeological location is called Pavle Chuka and is placed between the villages of Podmol and Bonche. We arrived at this location at noon; therefore we had problems during climbing to the tomb and later to the plateau.
However, the tomb is of Macedonian type which by its architectural conception is unique. It is composed of open dromos carved in a rock which descends to the tomb like a ramp; then, there is arched part of the dromos with a length of 11 meters and height of 3 meters. At the beginning of the arched dromos on its both sides there is a ring-shaped wall which surrounds the entire tomb. This kind of arcade of the Macedonian tombs is used since the period of rule of Philip and Alexander III the Great.
We left Bonche and headed to the ancient city Stibera – the centre of the Macedonian kings who have waged the battles against Illyrians. Stibera is located along the Black River (Erigon) in the immediate vicinity of the village of Chepigovo near Prilep. It is still not established when Stibera was built, but it is assumed that it was built in the time of Philip II. Stibera is a city in which the archeological excavations discovered most ancient sculptures which were completely preserved
Stibera is one of the largest ancient cities in Macedonia and at the same time, one of the most attractive ancient urban settlements. The archeological research conducted in this location has discovered a whole treasury of movable archeological material, ceramic bowls, coins, marble monuments, boards with inscription and many marble plastics, more than 30 statues and busts of distinguished citizens of that time. It witnesses that this excavations have discovered a part of a city wall, because the barbarian devastations of the peripheral parts of the Roman Empire toward the end of the 3rd century led to the mass detriment of many cities, among which the city of Stibera as well.
From Stibera we went back to Prilep where our friend Martin Trenevski stayed, and together with Steve we continued our trip to Bitola. There, in the evening in the hotel “Epinal” where we were accommodated, we met several representatives of “Vinozito” from Lerin. The meeting lasted all night long. We discussed about the presence and the future of the Macedonians in the Aegean part of Macedonia and their associations.
The next day we went sightseeing Bitola, particularly its central part and then we continued to Heraclea Lyncestis– an urban settlement from ancient Macedonian period up to the Middle Age. According to the information we provided while we were sitting in the amphitheater, it was founded in the middle of 4th century BC by the king Philip II of Macedonia, in order to be an important strategic point.
It is located in the southern periphery of the city of Bitola, in the foot of Baba Mountain. It is named after Heracles, the mythic hero and the founding father of the Macedonian royal dynasty Argeadi, while the epithet Lyncestis, meaning “Lyncestis’s” comes from the name of the region of Linkestida where the city was located and where the ancient Macedonian tribe Lyncestides lived. Heraclea is located on a fertile plain, from the northern side it is protected by Baba Mountain, that is, Tumbe Kafe hill and Siva Voda River on south. Heraclea has endured and developed in an important crossroad on the Via Ignatia road.
We were also informed that according to the written sources, after he had conquered Linkestida, Philip II had erected a fortress from which he could control a part of his kingdom. There is also data that at the beginning of the 2nd century BC, during the wars with the Romans, the Macedonian king Philip V had built several fortresses in the bordering regions in order to secure the border of the kingdom.
The city has experienced the highest degree of civilization development in the time of Roman governance in the first centuries of the new era when it was granted a status of a colony. In that period Heraclea became a strong economic and political centre with its permanent Roman regent and its Roman army. All of that reflected on the image of the city in a manner that the Roman architecture was mostly represented, although the traditional influences and the historical heritage were still characteristic for the city.
From Heraklea we went to the border crossing Medzitlija in order to continue our journey to Lerin, Zeleniche, the native place of Steve Pliakes and from there to Kostur where we planned to visit some locations of the ancient Macedonian kingdom.
We quickly passed the border of the Republic of Macedonia and headed to the border to Aegean Macedonia. There we gave our Canadian passports but we were told to wait. We were waiting for a long time so we asked about the reason why we were waiting so long. But we did not get any answer because the officers were checking our Canadian travelling documents.
After approximately 40 minutes we were told that the author of this book was allowed to enter Greece, but Steve Pljakas was not. The Greek officers forbade him to enter his native land. After long discussions we asked them to explain us the reasons why Steve was forbidden in writing. The officers did it and in a rude manner told us to get back.
We went toward the border crossing to Republic of Macedonia, but disappointed and degradated by the fact that Greece did not respect the fundamental human rights. But we were dissatisfied at most that this state being a member of the European Union does not recognize Canadian documents. That is why we decided to send the document which forbade Steve Pliakes to enter Greece to the Canadian Embassy and the Canadian-Macedonian Committee of Human Rights. Then, without saying a word, we went to Ohrid.
To be continue
By Slave Nikolovski-Katin
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